A Two-Day Journey on the River Mekong in Northern Laos

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River Mekong Barge - Martin Oldfield
River Mekong Barge - Martin Oldfield
A relaxing and fascinating river journey featuring visits to local villages and to a religious site. It includes food and overnight accommodation (on land).

This memorable 160–mile river journey features two days on a boat that can accommodate up to 24 people. Food and drinks are included on both days. The boat makes two brief stops at riverside villages and at a historic Buddhist shrine.

At about 5pm on Day 1, the boat moors and travellers walk across a sandy river beach to the Luang Say Lodge. The following morning the journey continues, we visit Pak Ou Caves, and arrive at the ex-royal capital of Luang Prabang at about 5pm.

How to Arrive at the Start of the Mekong River Journey

We flew to Bangkok and took an internal flight to Chiang Rai in northern Thailand. There are several hotels in this small town. We were then driven for an hour to the border village of Chiang Kong, crossed the River Mekong in a small boat, and arrived in Laos at the small village of Houei Say. The entry visa to Laos costs $35.

A bridge is being built across the Mekong and is likely to be opened in 2012 and this will speed up the journey to Laos from Thailand.

The First Day On The Mekong And A Village Visit

The journey starts at about 10 am at the village of Houei Say, in Northern Laos. Most passengers travel via Thailand and should arrive at about 8 am to allow for the immigration and transfer procedures.

The boat is a purpose-built 34 metre Mekong river barge. The crew serves tea and coffee and water when requested and snacks and lunch are also included. Alcohol can also be purchased. There are toilet facilities on board and English- and French-speaking local guides.

We visited a village where the local Mhong hill tribe people were welcoming. They exist mainly by farming and some fishing. It seemed incongruous that most lived in homes made from bamboo and some were sporting satellite TV dishes! Several women were distilling the immensely powerful Lao Lao (Laotian whiskey).

Apart from at the height of the rainy season, the river can be surprisingly narrow and meanders quickly between exposed rocks. Even after the wet season, the river flows quickly and the boat journey downstream tends to be at about 20 knots.

The local people are involved in farming, fishing, weaving, gold prospecting, whiskey distillery and teak logging.

The Luang Say Lodge

Porters arrive at the boat and take the travellers’ bags up to the lodge hotel situated near the village of Pakbeng. The rooms are individual teak and rosewood cabins on stilts and are very well equipped. Before the excellent evening meal was served, we watched a display of traditional dancing by some very young local village girls and boys. Breakfast is served at 7am the following morning and the boat leaves at 8.

The Second Day On The Mekong, Hill Village And A Shrine

The vegetation now becomes denser, there are steep sides and resembles in places a tropical rainforest. En route the river winds though jungle, mountains, teak plantations and farmland.

A hill village is visited where two tribes (Lao and Mhong) now live together The former are Buddhists and the latter are animists. In addition to farming they weave scarves with the dye being brought from Luang Prabang. These scarves can be purchased and the villagers usually ask 50,000 kip each (circa. £4 or $6) for these lovely objects.

In mid afternoon and after another excellent lunch the boat stops at the Pak Ou caves. Both caves are full of Buddha images; some of them are very old. A stone staircase reaches the site and the upper cave requires a torch (available at the cave).

At about 5pm on Day 2 travellers arrive at the lovely ex-royal town of Luang Prabeng, a World Heritage site since 1995.

For more details of travelling in Laos as well as in Cambodia and in Vietnam, please refer to the linked article.

This was one of the most enjoyable, relaxing and fascinating river journeys we have ever experienced. For more details refer to the Luang Say Mekong Cruises website.

Martin Oldfield, Judy Buchanan

Martin Oldfield - Martin Oldfield I have worked as a Tour Leader taking groups of travellers to a range of countries in Asia, Africa, the Caribbean and ...

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